First you want to remove the oil as quickly as possible. If the oil is left on the asphalt it will soften the pavement and eventually destroy it leaving a hole and a stain.
First things to do are;
Using a cloth wipe up the excess oil.
After cleaning up the excess oil. Apply speedy dry or kitty litter to the spill area. Move it around, back and forth using a broom. You are trying to have the kitty little or speedy dry soak up the excess oil. Let it sit for a few hours and then clean up the litter or speedy dry.
Next, try to remove what is left of the oil and as much of the stain as possible. Below is a list of a few ways to try and remove the oil stain using products you may have at home.
Dawn Dish soap– Apply a large amount of Dawn to the oil spot and apply a little water. Then scrub the spot with a large brisled brush. Then, rinse the area off with water. You may want to do this a couple of times to try and get as much oil out of the asphalt as possible.
Baking Soda– Apply a generous amount directly to the stain. Dampen the baking soda slightly damp and then scrub the area with a stiff brush in a circular motion and let it sit approximately 45 minutes and then wash it away.
Coca Cola– Pour one or two cans to the oil spot and let it sit for at least 12 hours, let it penetrate down into the asphalt. Then clean it up after a period of time and repeat the process but only let the soda sit for 1 hour the second time. Make sure the excess oil has been taken up prior to using this process.
Oven cleaner– Apply and let it sit for approximately 10 minutes and rinse off with as much pressurized water as you can get.
Laundry Detergent– Apply to the spot and add a little water. Scrub the area with a stiff brush in a circular motion and after about 45 minutes wipe off the surface.
WD40- Spray on the oil stain and let it sit for about 30-35 minutes. This will allow it to sink into the pavement. You may need to scrub it with a hard brush. Then rinse it off. You can repeat this process if the oil stain is still present.
Simple Green- They have a driveway cleaner you can use as well.
These are a few ways to try and remove oil spills and stains from you asphalt using common house hold products. If the stain is still present after any or multiple ways of trying to get rid of it you may want to look into industrial cleaners or sealcoating as soon as you can. The longer the oil and stains sit on the asphalt the more damage it will do over time.
Thousands of years before urban planning, motor vehicles or even the wheel. Our first roads were spontaneously formed by humans and animals walking the same paths over and over to get water and find food. As small groups of people combined into villages, towns and cities; networks of walking paths eventually became what we now consider most roads. The first roads really appeared all over in places like the woods, open terrain, even following shore lines.
Following the introduction of the wheel approximately 7,000 years ago; larger and heavier loads could be transported longer distances. These loads showed the limitations of dirt paths, as they turned into muddy bogs when it rained. The earliest stone paved roads have been traced to about 4,000 B. C. in the Indian subcontinent and Mesopotamia. The Romans developed techniques to build roads using multiple layers of materials of crushed stone. They used crushed stone to help with the water drainage. This process allowed their legions to be more mobile throughout their empire. Some of those roads remain in use today more than 2,000 years later. These practices were the foundation of the techniques we use on building today’s roads all these years later.
The modern road construction techniques can be traced to a process developed by Scottish engineer John McAdam. In the early 19th century McAdam topped multi-layer roadbeds with a soil and crushed stone aggregate that was packed down with heavy rollers to compact it all together. Contemporary asphalt roads capable of supporting the vehicles that emerged in the 20th century built upon McAdam’s methods of compacted base of processed stone and then tar was added as a binder. The actual process of road building has changed dramatically over the past century, going from large groups of workers with picks and shovels to what we use today as enormous specialized machines.
With much of the 20th century punctuated by hot & cold wars, the need to move the military just as the Romans did led to the development of the modern superhighway, including the German Autobahn and our American interstate system. Military requirements for long unobstructed stretches that could be used as emergency runways for aircraft paid a dividend for civilian drivers who could now cross countries at high speeds much more efficiently than a dirt road. Making these travels much safer and efficient for everyone.
Building or expanding modern roads is a complex undertaking that can cost anywhere from $2 to $12 million per mile depending on the number of lanes and the location. A great deal of consideration is put into where roads should go in order to minimize disruptions and make them as direct as possible. While simultaneously keeping slopes reasonable in hilly areas for performance and safety reasons.
Today we use the practice of rebuilding existing roads. This process always starts with machines pulling up (milling or pulverizing) the existing pavement. The grindings that are pulled up are either used as part of the new base or are put into trucks for reuse later as aggregate for new roads. After grading and compacting the surface, pavers come in and lay down fresh continuous sheets of asphalt followed directly by the rollers. This process allows the asphalt and stone to bind together with the tar material for a smooth surface for pedestrian, bicycle and vehicular traffic.
Needless to say the engineering and process we use today has come a long way from the walking paths our ancestors and animals made through the lands centuries ago. Today we have an abundant amount of options to get from place to place because of those paths and the ability to create roadways. To think that just about 150 years ago there were no vehicles; everything used for long distance transportation was generally horse and buggy or trains. We have come a long way in a short amount of time in history.
First a bit of history; Pottery makers in the 15th and 16th century England would take advantage of the ruts that wagon and coach wheels gouged into roads. Anxious for a cheap source of raw materials for making clay pots. The potters would dig into the deep ruts to reach clay deposits underneath. Teamsters driving wagons and coaches over these roads knew who and what caused these holes and referred to them as “potholes”. What we consider a pothole today: Potholes are created when the pavement or the material beneath it—called base or sub base —cannot support the weight of the traffic it carries. Two factors are always present in such a failure: Traffic and Water. The formation period for a pothole includes these milestones: Snow or rain seeps into cracks in the pavement and into the soil below, causing mud and eroding the support as a hole or void forms under the pavement. Repeated freeze/thaw cycles or traffic cause the ground to expand and push up the pavement. With temperature increases, the ground returns to its previous level, however the pavement does not drop, which results in a gap between the road surface and the ground below. Vehicles driving over the raised pavement cause the surface to crack and fall into the hollow area below the pavement, which creates the pothole. How are potholes repaired? Pothole patching is generally performed either as an emergency repair under harsh conditions or as routine maintenance scheduled for warmer and drier weather. Depending on the materials used, patching can be performed during weather that ranges from clear spring days to harsh winter storms with temperatures ranging from 0 to 100 degrees. (mix costs more in the winter months).
When a pothole is first found, there is a liability issue with vehicular and pedestrian traffic going into or over a pothole. The first thing to do is cone the area off or temporarily filling it with hot asphalt or cold patch. This is not a permanent fix but can help with the immediate problem. When weather conditions and time of day are available the temporary patch should be fixed for a more permanent solution.
There are many ways to fill in potholes here is a list of some of them:
Conventional Patching (long term solution)
Cut out the problem area to the sub-base
Repair the sub-base as needed & compact
Install & compact 2 inches of hot bituminous binder course
Install & compact 1 inch of hot bituminous concrete per MDPW specification, type I class meeting the elevation of existing pavement.
Seal the paving joint
Overlay Problem Area (temporary solution)
Key cut around the perimeter of area to be patched
Clean & hand apply Tack to the area being over layed
Install & compact bituminous concrete over the problem area
Seal the paving joints
This is a Temporary fix – The problem will reoccur over time
Infrared Patching
This is a method of blending new and existing asphalt by adding new asphalt to the pothole and infareding the area.
It creates A joint free patch • It is a good way to correct low areas in pavement
This is not recommended for seriously damaged areas- the problem will reoccur.
Polypatch & Mastics
Designed for patching large cracks & distressed pavement and potholes
Hot applied, self-adhesive modified binder containing selective aggregates
The appearance of a parking lot can be enhanced by proper line striping. The color and the type of paint chosen have much to do with the look. Typically the striping is done in white or yellow and the handicap logos, blue square. Some feel that yellow is more visible and should be used on curbing, hashed areas, words and crosswalks. Others feel the yellow should be used in climates where there is snow. They feel the yellow will be seen better in snowy situations. Some feel the yellow is too commercial looking and should not be used in residential areas like condominiums and apartments. In these areas white may be the preferred color.
What it comes down to is the color you choose, is your personal preference. Some people are even using all blue lines and others are having custom colors made to have their line striping colors match their building.
There are a number of options for the type of paint you use. Prior to 1990, 90% of paint used for parking lots and roadways were oil based. In the 1990’s there was a movement away from the oil base paint and towards more environmentally friendly paints (lead free).
Below is a list of a few paint option you have for striping a parking lot:
Waterborne Paints– Tend to be the most commonly used among line stripers. The advantages are simple; The product is easy to use, cleans up easily and there is barely any fumes. Waterborne line paint has advanced remarkably in the last few years. This type of paint is used when striping a parking lot that has been recently sealed with a coal tar product. Waterborne paints tend not to perform well in temperatures under 50° In Northern climates this shortens the striping season.
Chlorinated Rubber– Typically is a more expensive paint than a waterborne paint. Until recently it would yellow when applied over a newly sealed lot with a coal tar. They now have corrected that problem. Chlorinated Rubber paint dries quickly and is a tougher paint and provides extra durability than a Waterborne Paint. Compared to a waterborne paint it tends to perform better in a wider range of temperatures. Chlorinated Rubber can be applied in cool temperatures and thus extends the striping season in the cooler climates. Chlorinated Rubber is a high performance paint that dries quickly, has excellent durability and abrasion resistance.
Reflective Paints– Provide the best visibility of parking lines. The headlights of cars light up the beads. This type of line striping is very useful in nighttime, snow, or icy conditions. Reflective paints are basically glass beads put in both Waterborne and Chlorinated Rubber paints. As soon as the paint is applied the beads need to be put in the paint. Then the beads just stick to the paint as it dries.
Thermal Plastic Paints– This is what you see most of the time on highways in New England. It is the striping that appears to be thick and raised up. It is extremely durable and your most expensive option. The cost is many time more than conventional striping. This is not the normal striping material but contains plastic. It requires heat to melt the product down and apply it. Once, it is dry and cured it can withstand a lot more abrasion or abuse than normal line striping. Sealcoating will not stick to it and in most cases it cannot be applied over existing sealcoating or line paint; unless they are very worn. The upside is Thermal Plastic striping lasts longer but the downside is it is very expensive.
Oil Based Paints– The more durable choice but it is banned in certain parts of the country due to the environmental concerns
The use of additives is beneficial both to the contractor and the customer. When using additives properly the actual cost of the sealer will go up but the advantages will make it worth while.
There are many additives for coal tar and asphalt based sealers. Each additive may have a different benefit. Picking the proper additive and mix design for your needs is very important. There is an extensive line of sealcoating additives that help you get the most out of your sealer by improving the efficiency and effectiveness of your sealer. Some of the benefits of using a polymer additive are:
Some allow the sealer to dry and cure faster. Saving time and money.
This allows the job to be completed faster. The sealer drying faster means less time needed between each coat of sealer being applied.
Once the project is sealed the line striping crews will be able to get on the lot and start line striping sooner.
If the additive speeds up the curing time then the area will be able to be opened to foot and vehicular traffic sooner. This makes it less time consuming and less disruptive to businesses, schools and residential areas.
Most Additives tend to make the finished job blacker and more uniform in appearance. This making the property more attractive. Which is a great benefit to both the owner and contractor.
Additives will help keep the sand in the sealer suspended and uniformly mixed. The result is a uniform coating of sealer being applied. It also helps hold the sand in the sealer once applied to the asphalt there is less sand rolled out.
The proper additive will improve the performance of the sealer itself by:
Increasing the resistance to chemicals, such as deicing products, oil and gas spills.
Increasing the resistance to water and the damaging elements.
Increasing the flexibility of the coating, which is important with temperature changes.
Sealer with additives typically have less power steering marks and less potential for tacking.
By using additives it can extend the number of days that the sealer can be applied. Some allow sealers to be applied in cooler weather. The faster curing time can also allow you to apply sealer on days when the incoming weather conditions may not be ideal.
The use of additives is beneficial to both the customer (owner) and the contractor. The actual mix design may cost a small amount more, but the long term benefits for both parties of using quality additives and sealer will out weigh the additional material costs.
By adding some bright color and textured surface, we can help cyclists be safer for riding with vehicular traffic! These bike paths will help keep our active cyclists more visible. Inquire on our website, call us today for more information or a FREE estimate!
Taking the cheapest price is not always a good idea when choosing your pavement maintenance contractor.
If service and quality are not important and your budget is a major factor then get 3 bids and choose the lowest bidder.
By choosing the lowest bidder you may have a contractor whose incentive is not to make you happy but to just get the job done. If you receive a bid more than 25% less than the other bidders you may want to ask yourself why? Most of the reputable contractors have similar costs. There may be a few differences but over all their costs are almost they are the same. The good pavement maintenance contractors all pay about the same for benefits, labor, material, insurance and equipment.
The easiest way for a sealcoating contractor to lower his price is to lower their costs. The easiest way to lower costs are;
Not to have insurance
Adding more than the recommended amount of water to the sealer when mixing. By diluting the sealer with too much water you bring down the cost of the sealer and provide the customer with an inferior product. Water can increase the amount of sealer at no extra cost.
Not applying the manufacturers recommended application rate of the sealer. This should be on the sealcoating contractors proposal. If it is not, ask how much sealer is being applied per coat. If they don’t know immediately, it should put up a red flag. You can check the answer by checking the manufacturer’s product specifications. When the sealer is applied the parking lot will look nice and black. You will only know in the years to come if the contractor used the right dilution rate and application rate when applying the sealcoating product.
To create the least amount of inconvenience, how many mobilizations does the contractor plan on sealcoating your parking lot in? Sealcoating A closed building all at once on a weekend is an easy job. Sealcoating the parking lot in a shopping center, apartment or condominium complex can rarely be done all at once without complaints. Parking lots that are used 24 hours a day seven days a week need to be sealed in sections to prevent as much inconvenience as possible. Properly planning how to complete the job so not to have the owner or property manager in a bind is a key to a successful sealcoating job. The number of mobilizations the contractor plans on doing the job should be on the quote as well. The more sections a parking lot is sealcoated in the more expensive the job becomes.
How many coats of the sealer are being applied? It should be on the quote itself. If it is not, be sure to ask for the manufacturer specifications for the number of coats and make sure that matches the proposed work. Typically light traffic is one coat, moderate traffic is 2 coats and heavy traffic is 3 coats in the major travel lanes and 2 coats in parking stalls.
Cracksealing- If they are cracksealing do they have the proper equipment and how many linear feet of cracks are they sealing? There could be a huge difference between quotes. What type of crackfiller are they using. In New England you want a hot pour rubberized asphalt crack filler. In most cases cracksealing should be done before sealcoating.
Is the contractor doing any asphalt repairs? If so how many square feet and how are they doing it? Asphalt repairs are typically done before cracksealing or sealcoating.
Ask how long they have been in the pavement maintenance industry. The sealcoating industry is very easy to get into. Each year many sealcoating contractors call it quits and new ones spring up. If you choose the lowest bidder they may not be willing to come back and repair any warranty work. The contractor priced the job wrong along with others and cannot afford to come back and repair any problems. Experience also helps in planning how to sealcoat lots so not to cause too much inconvenience. The sealcoating contractor should be able to make out a detailed plan on how to do the job without too much disruption to the tenant or owners.
Choosing the lowest bidder, doesn’t always work out. Make sure to read each proposal closely. Make sure you are comparing apples to apples with each bid. You should ask for references. You not only want to go look at the work the contractor has done, but also talk to the contract person onsite and see how their experience was all around.
The bottom lines is, if done properly, even in the busiest parking lot the sealcoating job should be organized and relatively painless for everyone.
If you’ve been shopping for tennis shoes lately, then you know – there are tons of options out there.
Often you see players wearing running shoes to play tennis instead of actual tennis shoes. If you’re one of those players who feels most comfortable playing tennis in running shoes, you should play in whatever shoe is the most comfortable and helps you play your best tennis.
But for the vast majority, it’s pretty important to wear court tennis shoes. That is, to wear shoes that are specifically designed for tennis. This is because these shoes are made to give you the support, the cushioning and the traction that you need on a tennis court. We all know that tennis requires, not just a lot of running around, but it requires that you make quick starts and stops as well. The sport also requires a lot of lateral movement, and so tennis shoes are made to provide you with exactly the type of support and cushioning that you need in these situations. And the traction that you need on a tennis court is certainly much different than you would need if you were running. Even if you’re out running on a road, especially because you are dealing with these short starts and stops, quick steps, small steps, longer lunging steps, and so a tennis shoe is really made to provide you with the best possible shoe for those special situations.
Parts of the Tennis Shoe- Now, tennis shoes, just like any fitness shoe, have a lot of parts to them. There is a lot of lingo that surrounds tennis shoe anatomy.
There are two things that you need to know, two terms you should know that you may not already be familiar with. Those are the out-sole of the tennis shoe and the mid-sole. Both the out-sole and the mid-sole are most visible if you look at the bottom of your shoe. The out-sole is the actual surface, the bottom surface of your shoe, the part that comes in direct contact with the court. And the mid-sole is the layer right underneath that.
So the purpose of the out-sole is to help provide you with that stability and traction that you need. While the mid-sole is usually where you’ll find some of the cushioning that you get on court to help make the shoe as comfortable as possible.
Different Tennis Shoes for Different Tennis Courts- As you may already know, there are different kinds of tennis shoes. The biggest difference between them is what kind of court they’re designed to be used for. There are actually different types of tennis shoes for different courts. Because there are many to choose from making your decision should not be just about the different colors and fancy designs unless you are not looking to use them for a specific purpose.
Three types of courts that the vast majority play on are all weather (hard courts), clay courts, har-tru courts and grass courts. Hard courts are usually paved asphalt to create the court with layers of colorcoating. Clay courts are just that, a court made up of clay in a field. Lastly we have grass courts. These are just as they sound to be, a tennis court of just grass and painted lines with the net. Some of you may play more frequently on clay courts. Some of you may even have access to grass courts. But those are the three types of courts that most tennis players are playing on. That’s why there are four different types of shoes that you can get for each of those surfaces. Choosing the right type of shoe for the style of court you play on can make a significant difference in your game play as well.
Hard Court Shoes-The first type of shoe is made for hard courts. If you look at the bottom of these shoes, they are covered in a variety of patterns and things on the bottom. There will probably be some herringbone texture on there. You may even see some other design-type things on the out-sole of those hard court shoes. The job of these hard court shoes is to give you traction. They are also made to be durable because hard courts can be very hard on your shoes. The mid-sole will be designed to give you some cushioning because playing on hard courts can be harder on our joints. It’s a little more jarring out there with all of the starting and stopping. So the sole of the shoe, the out-sole and the mid-sole, will be designed to absorb some of that shock. No sport shoe that has black out soles should be used on a hard court.
Clay Court/Har-Tru Shoes- A clay court/har-tru shoes on the other hand, usually have pattern going across the outsole and this is to help grip into the clay on the clay court without retaining a lot of that clay in the sole of the shoe. You don’t want the clay to stick to the shoe, although it will somewhat anyway. But you don’t want your shoe to be caked in clay because then it becomes too slippery and you will slide around too much and can even slide and fall. So you will see on a clay court shoe that the outsole is usually a full herringbone pattern. There is also normally more lateral support in the upper part of the shoe on a clay court shoe because so much more sliding is going on. And, believe it or not, the upper part of the shoe is usually a little bit tighter and normally is not a mesh type fabric because it helps keep the clay from getting inside the shoe.
Grass Court Shoes- Finally, there is the grass court shoe. This really is a specialized shoe. The bottom will have little nubs or rubbery cleats to help grip into the very slippery grass surface. And this shoe is only for using on grass courts. You can’t really use this on hard courts or clay courts.
Now of these three types of shoes, the hard court can pretty much be used on any of the three surfaces – on hard courts, clay courts or grass courts. It may not perform for you quite as well on a clay court or certainly it won’t perform as well on a grass court. But it will be more than adequate. So if you have a club where there are hard courts and clay courts available and you’re never quite sure what you’re going to be playing on, getting a hard court shoe is probably the best decision. That way whether you play on hard courts or clay courts, you’ll have a good shoe.
How Often Should You Replace Your Tennis Shoes?- How often should you be buying new shoes? How do you know when it’s time to replace your tennis shoes? Well, way you can tell is, is look at the bottom of your shoe. Look at that out-sole. If you notice that the out-sole is starting to wear away, so that you can now see the mid-sole, the layer under the out-sole, that tells you that the traction on your shoe is starting lose some of its depth. You are not going to get as good of a grip out on the court and it may be time to go get a new pair of tennis shoes.
There is a rule of thumb on this and it is that, if you play tennis 2 to 3 times a week in one pair of shoes, you probably need a new pair of shoes about every six months. But that is just a rule of thumb and your experience may differ. I think it’s better to look at the bottom of your shoes and judge what is going on to help you make the decision whether it’s time for a new pair of tennis shoes.
Works Cited: April 1, 2016 by Kim Selzman– www.tennisfixation.com
Junior tennis refers to tennis games where the participants are aged 18 and under. Eligibility to compete is not based on age, but year of birth: as a result, some players must move out of juniors soon after their 18th birthday, while others can play juniors until they are nearly 19. Some players who qualify as “junior tennis” players also play in main adult tours, though forms signed by their parent or guardian are required for this.
Junior Tennis Circuit History- International Tennis Federation (ITF)
From nine events in six countries in 1977 to 448 tournaments in 125 countries in 2016; that is how far the ITF Junior Circuit has progressed in its history.
The Junior World Ranking circuit was started by the ITF (International Tennis Federation) in 1977, linking nine of the major events for juniors. John McEnroe won all three tournaments he played in, but finished third on the overall standings behind fellow American Van Winitsky. Czech Hana Strachanova headed the girls’ year-end standings in 1977.
The following year the ITF started the Junior World Rankings and the Czech pairing of Ivan Lendl and Hana Mandlikova became the first Junior World Champions. Both players went on to achieve huge success in the senior game. Lendl, who held the world No. 1 ranking for 270 weeks, won eight Grand Slam titles, while Mandlikova went on to win the Australian, US and French Open crowns.
The next future Grand Slam champion to top the Junior World Rankings was Australian Pat Cash in 1981. Runner-up to Matt Anger in the 1981 Junior Wimbledon final, he went on to capture the senior event in 1987 with a memorable victory over Ivan Lendl.
Sweden’s Stefan Edberg created history in 1983 when he became the first and only player to date to complete a Junior Grand Slam. He went on to become world No. 1 in 1990, and enjoyed six senior Grand Slam successes. Only the French Open remained beyond his reach as a professional.
Gabriela Sabatini of Argentina became the youngest girls’ champion at 14 in 1984, with five tournament wins including the French Open and Orange Bowl. She went on to defeat Steffi Graf in the 1990 US Open final for her one senior Grand Slam success.
Chile’s Marcelo Rios showed signs of a bright future when he topped the end-of-year rankings in 1991, and seven years later he became senior world No 1.
Martina Hingis emerged as the youngest player to capture a junior Grand Slam title when she won the French Open at the age of 12 in 1993. The following year she regained her Paris title, won at Wimbledon and took over as the youngest World Junior Champion. The Swiss player won a total of five senior Grand Slam singles titles.
Heading the end-of-year rankings in recent years have been 14-year-old Anna Kournikova in 1995, Australian Open and Wimbledon champion Amelie Mauresmo in 1996, and Wimbledon semi-finalist Jelena Dokic in 1998. Roger Federer became the boys’ singles World Champion in 1998 claiming the Wimbledon singles and doubles and the Orange Bowl titles en route to the crown and finishing runner-up to David Nalbandian at the US Open.
It took Andy Roddick just three years to make the step from year-end junior No.1 in 2000 to year-end No.1 in the professional game in 2003. The US Open title helped Roddick to the top in both the junior and professional game; in juniors the American also won the Australian Open and the Banana Bowl.
More recently, 2005 Victoria Azarenka made her mark on the professional circuit, with Azarenka having reached the world No. 1 ranking after winning her maiden Grand Slam title at the Australian Open.
The Top 10 Club was introduced onto the Junior Circuit in 2006 and has some of the most recognized names in tennis amongst its members who receive exclusive benefits as recognition of their achievements. Members include the likes of Bernard Tomic and Caroline Wozniacki.
The latest group of players looking to make the transition from the junior to pro circuit include Laura Robson, Ashleigh Barty, Eugenie Bouchard, Jiri Vesely and Tayor Fritz all of whom have impressed in winning junior Grand Slams and look set to be stars of the future.
Tournament grades
Tournaments are divided into 8 different grades. The following list presents them in descending order of importance towards the junior ranking.[1]
Grade A (including four Grand Slams)
Grade B (Regional Championships)
Grade C (International Team Competitions)
Grades 1-5
Rules & Regulations
The ITF updates the Juniors Circuit Rules and Regulations on an annual basis.
Within these all the key information regarding the circuit and tournaments can be found and all players are strongly advised to read the Rules and Regulations prior to playing.
The 2017 ITF Juniors Circuit Regulations and Organizational Requirements and a summary of the rule changes can be found below.
Please note that the 2017 Junior Circuit Regulations and Rule Changes 2017 pdf’s were updated on 1 February 2017 and replace any previous versions you may have.
Junior Circuit- 2017 Regulations updated 1 February 2017
There are so many games that children play on the school playground or at the Neighborhood park, many of which have been played for generations and some that are new for this generation of youngsters. Kids love playing, whether it’s at recess, afterschool, on the weekend or all summer long. There are games kids play on the playground equipment, whether it’s making believe they’re in a castle or mountain climbing. Kids have such active imaginations, though, that they can play games even when there’s nothing but asphalt blacktop or a sidewalk to play on. Games help kids stay in shape, develop their creative abilities and build social skills—what could be better?
Top Kids Games in the United States
It would be impossible to list all the different games that kids play on the school or park playground, especially when you consider all the children’s games from around the world. The following list, however, includes many of the most popular games that children currently play in the United States:
○ Dodge Ball ○ Four Square ( King & Regular)
○ Double Dutch ○ Hopscotch- from all over the world and US Maps
○ Red Light, Green Light ○ Counting objects
○ Hopscotch ○ Tyke Race Tracks
○ I Spy ○ Number Square
○ Jump Rope ○ Drop Ball
○ Kick Ball ○ Wiffleball
○ Tag ○ Alphabet Serpant or Eel
○ Red Rover ○ Mother, May I
○ Red Light, Green Light
The Benefits of Kids Games
With the obesity problem in America, active games that utilize playground equipment, jump ropes and/or body movement are particularly important for kids to play. Following the increasing number of obese children it is very important to give them things they can enjoy and not consider to be just excersize but fun. Having playground and schoolyard games help kids burn off calories and move their bodies around, which is so necessary after spending most of their day sitting in a class room. When kids are inactive during their recesses at school and spend their free time at home playing video games and watching TV instead of going outside, they are developing behaviors that could hold them back for the rest of their lives. Games that rely on children’s brains and encourage teamwork are equally beneficial because they help to strengthen mental and social skills that will come in handy as they enter middle school, high school, college and the job market. Playground games also help children be more social and their interactions with other kids their age is as equally important as stimulation, problem solving and physical exersize.
The games that kids play on the school and park playground offer many benefits, whether they’re creative games that use the child’s imagination or active games that work out the child’s body. Children should be encouraged to play these games as much as possible.
These are some examples of schoolyard and playground games. At New England Sealcoating we offer many kinds of play graphic options and are more than happy to help you come up with something new for your school yard. Contact us today for a FREE estimate on how to freshen up your boring blacktop in your schoolyard.
